Team PowerTrays is out of the shop this week to attend Overland Expo West. Orders placed now will begin shipping in the order they are received beginning next Tuesday, Sept 28th. Thank you!
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    This is a step-by-step guide showing how to remove the standoff plate the Bantamx (same procedure for the SourceLT) comes mounted to so you can flush mount the base module on the PowerTray. The BantamX also comes with the power and ground cables pre-installed.

    You need to first remove the power and ground cables then separate the the base from the standoff plate. Start by removing the BantamX's cover and pry off the little red cap on the positive stud (pull straight up). Now remove the nuts securing the cables. After removing the nuts you can wiggle the cables up off of the stud and bend them straight so they can slide out the holes.

    Next you'll use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the four screws that hold the base to the standoff plate.

    The standoff plate and screws wont be reused but you will be reusing the rubber splash guard when you reinstall the base on the PowerTray.

    Mounting the BantamX to the PowerTray:

    First, line up the rubber splash mat with the 4 screw holes on the tray. Then place the base unit on top of the rubber splash mat. Finally, use the included replacement (slightly longer) #6 screws to secure the base to the PowerTray. 

    With the base unit securely mounted to the PowerTray, disassemble the 50 amp shortstop circuit breaker from the power cable so we can modify it for the 100A circuit breaker. 

     

    Once you disassemble the cable you'll be left with a 1 foot cable and a 2 foot cable. The 1 foot table will be used to go from the battery to the circuit breaker; and the 2 foot cable will be used for the circuit breaker to BantamX's base unit. You'll use the included ring terminals to modify these cables so that you can use the full capacity of the BantamX.

    Note from sPOD: All of the standard sPOD units use the same circuit board. On the circuit board it comes with three 30 amp fuses and three 15 amp fuses and one main 50 amp circuit breaker. Add up the amperage of all of the accessories that you're going to wire to this circuit board. If for some reason you need to turn on all 6 switches at once, the total amperage that you can run through this box is 50 amps right out of the package. If you exceed 50 amps, the auto reset circuit breaker will shut off until it cools down. The manufacturer sPOD has stated that they put a 50amp breaker on the circuit board to prevent a customer from overloading their alternator. However you CAN change the circuit breaker to an 80 amp or 100 amp as long as your alternator can handle it. The circuit board will handle 100 amps without a problem.

    The 1 foot cable will have a larger ring terminal on one end for connecting to your positive battery. You'll cut off the smaller end so you can crimp on the new ring terminal so the cable can be attached to the circuit breaker. wait till after you install the tray in order to get the right length.

    The 2 foot cable will need modified too so it can be used with the circuit breaker. 2 feet is more cable than you'll need to go from the circuit breaker to the BantamX, so start by attaching the cable to the BantamX's base (like it originally was), then attach the replacement ring terminal to the positive stud of the circuit breaker. Run the cable up through the reservoir opening on the PowerTray and this will tell you the approximate length you need to cut the cable at. Cut at the red line and strip at the Orange line. Note don't forget to put the heat shrink on the cable before crimping on the replacement ring terminal.

    The negative cable doesn’t need modified and can be reattached to the BantamX's base again.

    Now take the PowerTray out to your vehicle and install it.

    Steps completed so far:

    1. BantamX and 100A circuit breaker mounted to the PowerTray.
    2. Modified power cable going from 100A CB to BantamX
    3. Ground cable reinstalled

    Once the PowerTray is installed in your Chevy Colorado you can get an approximate length for the power cable the will go from the battery to the circuit breaker. Cut, crimp and heat shrink following the same procedure as before.  

    **Better pics will follow soon. I don't have a Chevy Colorado at my disposal right now so I'm working with customers that are out of state to get more pics and info.