INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: Switch-Pros PowerTray > Toyota > TRD Off-Road/ TRD Pro.
Thank you for purchasing the Switch-Pros PowerTrays system. Please follow the provided instructions to ensure that your PowerTray is installed correctly and your wires are routed correctly.
Before you start check to make sure you have everything:PowerTray Components:
- Switch-Pros PowerTray
- Support Leg
- Installation Hardware:
- (2) M8 JIS Flange Bolt
- (1) M6 JIS Flange Bolt
- (1) M6 JIS Flange Nut
- Accessory Hardware:
- (10) #8 x 9/16” Length Phillips machine screws
- (2) #8 x 3/8” Length Phillips machine screws
- (1) Rubber grommet
- Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse block
- Blue Sea 8 circuit terminal block
- Blue Sea 10 screw busbar
- Dual MRBF fuse holder
- 125A Marine Rated Battery Fuse
- 100A Marine Rated Battery Fuse
- 26" Length 4GA Power Cable
- 24" Length 4GA Power Cable
- 3’’ Length 4GA Ground Cable
- 16" Length 4GA Ground Cable
- Perma-Seal Heat shrink ring terminals
- 5 large
- 5 small
- Optional - Low-profile mini add-a-fuse's
- Switch-Pros SP9100
PREP WORK: THINGS TO DO BEFORE THE INSTALL IN YOUR TOYOTA1) Begin by prewiring the Switch-Pros output leads to the Positive Terminal Block.
- Mount the Switch-Pro and Blue Sea components to the PowerTray using the provided Accessory Hardware.
- The Busbar secures with the shorter 3/8" length machine screws; Everything else uses the longer 9/16" length machine screws)
- Route the Switch-Pros wires down under the unit and up though the space in the PowerTray.
- Temporarily hold the wires in place by removing the Terminal Block’s screws and reinserting them with the wire under the screw head.
- Once all 12 wires are routed and secured under the screw heads, adjust them for aesthetic uniformed length. Begin cutting them one by one using the edge of the Positive Terminal Block as a guide. This will ensure they are all uniform in length.
- Once all the wires are cut, flip the PowerTray over and begin stripping the ends in order to crimp on the heat shrink ring terminals. Lastly apply heat to the terminals to fully seal.
- Before attaching the wires to the terminal block, remove the SP's base module from the tray. This will give the ring terminals more room while screwing them in place to the Terminal Block. once the ring terminals are secured to the terminal block, move the SP's base back into location while using the back of the SP to uniformly push all the ring terminals down then finish screwing the base into place.
- Note: The insulation will be pressing against the back of the base module. So slightly wedge your finger between the the two to help add some distance between them so they don't rub.
- Lastly, attach the Negative Stubby Cable taking special care to its orientation as the cable is made with reversed lugs to account for the height differences between the fuse block and busbar.
2) Run the SP harness though the firewall
Unfortunately I don't have any pics right now, but one tip that we use is to poke a long zip tie though from inside the cab. Then tape the connector to the zip tie in a way that creates a gradual slope so the connector doesn't get hung up when pulling it back though to the inside of the cab. we like to use electrical tap because its stretchy. Also use some lube around the outside of the sloped tape to help it squeeze though the factory rubber grommet.
Tip: when wrapping the tape around, start alittle higher up on the ziptie and wrap towards the connector. this does two things; First it provides layers to act as the slope so the tape doesnt be hung up when going through the boot; secondly, starting up higher on the zip tie provides more surface area for the tape to adhere to.
The most common failure when using this technique is when the connecter reaches the rubber boot in the firewall and gets hung up. The zip tie will normally just pull out of the tape due to greater resistance (from the connector not wanting to squeeze though the boot) than adherents (tape) to the connector.
Once the connector and any other wires you need to run through into the cab is done and the Switch-Pros Output wires are wired to the Terminal Block you can now install the PowerTray in your vehicle.
Installing The PowerTray
Check to make sure nothing is in the way. (This customer has a relay holder mounted right where the PowerTray mounts and will be removing it.)
Remove the factory fuse block cover so you have more room underneath the PowerTray. Hold the PowerTray with your right hand and use your left hand to begin threading the M8 flange bolts into the factory threaded holes.
Tip: You can angle the PowerTray up and rotate it clockwise better access on the first bolt. then continue to hand tighten the first bolt 90% of the way in. For the second bolt, rotate it back down so the front hole lines up. Slide the PowerTray back towards the cab of the vehicle and the factory threaded hole will be right below the front edge of the PowerTray.
Its pretty tight under the PowerTray but just take your time on this step. If your big beef-cake arms just cant get this step done then some folks have found it easier to use a combination of extensions/swivel sockets in order to bring the ratchet out past the edge of the PowerTray.
Attach the support leg to the inside lip on the PowerTray with the included M6 hardware. Note: The serrations on the M6 flange nut will bite into the aluminum support leg when you tighten the bolt. Simply hold the nut firmly in your fingers until while you tighten the bolt and let science do the rest.
The bottom of the support leg attaches to a factory bolt that holds the front differential breather lines (Two black tubes with silver caps)
Wiring Switch-Pros Ignition and light seance wires: (Photo Dump)
The Switch-Pros has three voltage sensing wires used to control some of the features showcased by the unit. The light blue wire is the ignition sense wire and it is required in order to turn on and begin programing the Switch-Pros. The other taps are optional and used as a light sense (White wire used to dim the switch panel when you turn your lights on at night) and a trigger tap (Pink wire, this will be unique to each build, some have used this to tap into their reverse lights to simultaneously tigger aftermarket backup lights).
Step 1 - This is optional group the 3 wires together and wrap approximately 18 inches of Techflex (supplied by Switch-Pros) and seal both ends with heatshrink.
Step 2 - Bring the wires up into the factory fuse box by following the factory wires.
The following pictures show how to use a zip-tie to aid in bringing the wires up into the factory fuse box.
Note: After taping the ends of the wires to the zip-tie, use some lubricant to help the bundle slide though. Its pretty tight in there so it might take multiple attempts due to the tape getting hung up when pulling though.
Step 3 - Use your Low-Profile add-a-circuit fuse taps to make the final connections.
Note: factory fuse layouts might vary depending on your specific year/options. These connections were made on a 2018 Tacoma TRD Off Road. (Fuse tap closest to the engine was the ignition sense and the tap closest to the fender was used as the light sense)
Cable Routing for Dual MRBF install:Pretty self-explanatory from the pictures but the Dual MRBF mounts directly to the batteries positive post and provides the circuit protection for both the Blue Sea fuse block (100A) and SP9100 (125A).